"Tales from the Roof of the World: Adventure and Reflection on the Tibetan Plateau"

Critical Analysis of "Silk Road" by Nick Middleton

Nick Middleton’s travelogue "Silk Road" offers readers a fascinating glimpse into the rugged terrains and culture of Tibet, while capturing the raw beauty and challenges of journeying to Mount Kailash. Through his vivid descriptions and personal reflections, Middleton not only details the physical aspects of the journey but also explores the inner struggles that accompany high-altitude travel, giving the narrative a deeply introspective dimension.

1. Descriptive Imagery and Setting

Middleton’s use of descriptive imagery effectively transports readers to the remote, windswept landscapes of the Changtang Plateau, Mount Kailash, and the Tibetan salt flats. His writing evokes a sense of isolation and grandeur as he describes vast open plains, herds of wild animals, and the powerful Tibetan mastiffs that protect nomads' tents. His description of Lake Manasarovar, venerated by Hindus and Buddhists alike, stands in stark contrast to his unpleasant experience in the nearby town of Hor, illustrating the sacred amidst the profane. This juxtaposition serves as a reminder of the timeless spiritual heritage of the Silk Road, now somewhat marred by modern neglect and environmental degradation.

2. Theme of Cultural Intersection and Spiritual Significance

The narrative is embedded with cultural and spiritual references, which Middleton approaches with both curiosity and respect. His encounter with Lake Manasarovar exemplifies the intersection of spirituality and geography, as the lake holds religious significance across Hindu and Buddhist cosmologies. Through the character of Norbu, a Tibetan working in Beijing, Middleton also hints at the complex cultural exchanges and identities shaped by China’s influence on Tibet. Norbu’s humorous yet sincere attitude toward the kora, or pilgrimage, adds depth to the journey, highlighting how Tibetans like him are increasingly balancing modern influences with traditional beliefs.

3. Human Struggle and Physical Hardship

Middleton skillfully captures the physical and emotional toll of high-altitude travel. From the description of his recurrent headaches to his battle with insomnia at Darchen, he conveys the constant strain placed on his body. These physical hardships become metaphors for his internal journey, forcing him to confront his own limitations and willpower. The scene where he confronts a possible slip on the icy path mirrors the uncertainty and risks of his venture, amplifying the sense of vulnerability that often accompanies the pursuit of remote and sacred places.

4. Tone and Humor

While Middleton’s narrative carries a contemplative tone, it is interspersed with dry humor that lightens the gravity of his physical struggle. His interactions with the Tibetan mastiffs, for instance, are laced with irony as he recognizes their ferocity while also feeling unnerved by them. Additionally, Norbu’s self-deprecating humor about his lack of fitness and Middleton’s own lighthearted approach to adversity add relatability to the journey, allowing readers to appreciate the challenges and moments of levity that mark a long pilgrimage.

5. Personal Growth and Self-Reflection

"Silk Road" is not only an exploration of Tibet’s physical landscape but also a journey of self-discovery. Middleton’s introspective approach gives insight into his changing perspective as he grapples with his initial fears, discomfort, and exhaustion. The solitude and beauty of the Tibetan landscape seem to strip away his usual defenses, bringing him face-to-face with existential questions. Norbu’s suggestion to hire yaks signals Middleton’s shift from self-reliance to a more collaborative and open approach to the pilgrimage, indicating a subtle but significant change in his mindset.

Conclusion

Nick Middleton’s "Silk Road" is a compelling account of a physical journey that transcends into a spiritual and cultural exploration. His vivid descriptions, cultural observations, and moments of self-reflection blend seamlessly to create a narrative that is as enlightening as it is entertaining. Through his struggles with the harsh terrain and altitude, Middleton paints a poignant picture of Tibet’s raw beauty and spiritual aura, ultimately offering readers a glimpse into the transformative power of travel. The narrative encourages readers to consider their own inner journeys and the value of embracing new perspectives, even when faced with daunting challenges.

Here’s a detailed summary of Silk Road by Nick Middleton:

The lesson Silk Road recounts Nick Middleton’s experiences journeying through the isolated, rugged, and breathtaking landscapes of Tibet, primarily as he embarks on a pilgrimage towards Mount Kailash. Middleton begins his story with a vivid description of leaving the remote village of Ravu, where he receives a warm farewell gift from a local woman, Lhamo—a traditional sheepskin coat, symbolizing both hospitality and the harsh climate of the region.

Accompanied by his driver, Tsetan, and his interpreter, Daniel, Middleton sets off across the high-altitude Changtang plateau. They traverse open plains, stark mountain passes, and encounter unique wildlife such as gazelles and herds of wild Tibetan asses known as kyang. The scenery is vivid and untamed, with dust clouds rising from the herds and snow-capped mountains appearing in the distance, providing a dramatic backdrop for the journey. Middleton’s descriptions capture the stark beauty and remoteness of the Tibetan landscape, showcasing the isolation and the self-sufficiency of the Tibetan nomads, known as drokbas, who live and work in this extreme environment.

As they drive, they pass nomads’ tents guarded by fierce Tibetan mastiffs, dogs historically treasured in China for their bravery. These encounters highlight the traditional ways of life that continue despite the modernization seen elsewhere. The journey becomes more difficult as they encounter snow-covered mountain passes, challenging Tsetan’s driving skills and the capability of their four-wheel-drive vehicle. At one point, they must cover icy patches with soil to ensure safe passage. Middleton experiences physical discomfort from the high altitude, noting headaches, clogged sinuses, and the occasional struggle to breathe as they continue to ascend.

When they reach the town of Hor, Middleton’s impression is one of disillusionment. Unlike the spiritual and pristine image he had imagined, Hor is a bleak, grim place scattered with garbage, a stark contrast to the beauty of the sacred Lake Manasarovar nearby. Here, he parts ways with Daniel and, after a short break, resumes the journey with Tsetan.

In Darchen, a town close to Mount Kailash, Middleton faces another night of difficult breathing and sleeplessness. The next day, Tsetan takes him to a local doctor, who diagnoses his symptoms as altitude sickness and prescribes traditional Tibetan medicine. The medicine, though unusual in appearance and taste, proves effective, and Middleton experiences his first peaceful night’s sleep.

After Tsetan leaves for Lhasa, Middleton encounters Norbu, a Tibetan academic from Beijing, who has also come to Darchen to complete the kora, a ritualistic circumambulation of Mount Kailash. Though Norbu is not as well-prepared for the pilgrimage and lacks the devout spirituality that Middleton expects from a pilgrim, his enthusiasm and Tibetan heritage make him an ideal companion for the journey. Together, they discuss the idea of hiring yaks to assist with carrying their supplies and laugh about the challenges they might face.

The lesson explores themes of cultural contrasts, the challenges of high-altitude travel, the perseverance required to complete a pilgrimage, and the sometimes harsh realities of a landscape often romanticized. Middleton’s journey reflects a blend of adventure and introspection, offering readers a glimpse into the unique challenges and rewards of exploring the Tibetan plateau and its deeply spiritual landscape. Through his vivid descriptions and thoughtful narrative, Silk Road invites readers to reflect on the power of nature, tradition, and human resilience.

Word Meanings

Here are forty words from the text along with their meanings:

1. flawless: without any imperfections or defects.

2. half-moon: the shape resembling half of a complete circular disk.

3. extended: stretched out or prolonged.

4. banks: the sides or edges of something, like a river or road.

5. French loaves: bread shaped like long French-style loaves.

6. rose-tinted: coloured or tinged with a rosy or pink hue.

7. farewell: the act of saying goodbye.

8. ducking: quickly lowering the head or body.

9. tent: a portable shelter typically made of cloth and supported by poles and ropes.

10. clambered: climbed with difficulty or effort.

11. short cut: a quicker or more direct route.

12. Changtang: a high plateau in Tibet.

13. southwest: the direction midway between south and west.

14. mountain passes: gaps or openings in a mountain range.

15. likely: probable or expected to happen.

16. no problem: no difficulty or obstacle.

17. likelihood: the probability or chance of something happening.

18. gazelles: small, swift antelopes.

19. arid: dry, lacking moisture.

20. pastures: land used for grazing animals.

21. vast: extremely large or extensive.

22. wild ass: a type of undomesticated donkey.

23. kyang: another term for wild ass.

24. pall: a dark cloud or covering.

25. nomads: people who move from place to place with no permanent home.

26. splendid: magnificent or impressive.

27. isolation: being set apart or separated.

28. mastiff: a large, powerful breed of dog.

29. ferocious: extremely fierce or aggressive.

30. imperial: refers to something related to an empire, especially in terms of its characteristics, influence, or governance. It can also denote a system, style, or period associated with an empire or its ruler.

31. ancient times: referring to a long time ago in history.

32. tribute: a gift or payment as a sign of respect.

33. hugged: embraced or closely surrounded.

34. valley: a low area of land between hills or mountains.

35. meanders: winding or curving paths.

36. cairn: a mound of stones built as a memorial or landmark.

37. festooned: adorned or decorated with hanging items.

38. scarves: long pieces of fabric worn around the neck.

39. ragged: torn or frayed at the edges.

40. prayer flags: colourful flags with prayers or mantras, often seen in Tibetan Buddhism.

    
    

Characters:

The provided text does not explicitly introduce characters by name, and the narrator mainly focuses on personal experiences and encounters during the journey. However, there are a few individuals mentioned. Here are the main characters based on the information available:

1. Narrator/Author:

   • The narrator is the main character, providing a first-person perspective on the travelogue.

   • Described as undertaking a journey from Ravu to Mount Kailash to complete the kora.

   • Experiences challenges such as altitude sickness and a cold during the journey.

2. Lhamo:

   • A local individual from Ravu who gives the narrator a farewell present of a long-sleeved sheepskin coat.

   • Acts as a connection between the narrator and the local culture.

3. Tsetan:

   • The narrator's guide and driver during the journey.

   • Familiar with the route, including shortcuts and challenging mountain passes.

   • Plays a crucial role in navigating obstacles like snowy patches on the road.

4. Daniel:

   • Mentioned briefly as the person through whom the narrator communicates with Lhamo.

   • Accompanies the narrator during parts of the journey but later separates.

5. Norbu:

   • Introduced later in the narrative as a Tibetan academic.

   • Expresses interest in doing the kora with the narrator.

   • Works at the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences in the Institute of Ethnic Literature.

   • Described as ill-equipped for the pilgrimage, providing a contrast to traditional pilgrims.

These characters contribute to the overall narrative, adding cultural context, guidance, and companionship to the narrator's journey through the challenging terrain and high altitudes of Tibet.

Landmarks

In the extract of Nick Middleton's travelogue Silk Road, several distinct and remote locations in Tibet are described, each contributing to the sense of isolation, rugged beauty, and spiritual significance of his journey. Here are the main places he mentions:

1. Ravu

• Description: Ravu is a small, remote village where Middleton begins his journey. It is a stark, high-altitude settlement inhabited by Tibetan nomads. Here, he meets a local woman, Lhamo, who gifts him a sheepskin coat as a gesture of warmth and kindness.

• Significance: Ravu represents the starting point of Middleton’s journey and introduces him to Tibetan hospitality and the traditional lifestyles of the people who live in this challenging environment.

2. Changtang Plateau

• Description: The Changtang Plateau is an expansive and harsh high-altitude region in Tibet, characterized by vast plains, mountain passes, and extreme weather conditions. Middleton encounters wild animals like gazelles and kyang (wild Tibetan asses) as he crosses this barren landscape.

• Significance: Known for its harsh climate and stunning landscapes, the Changtang Plateau embodies the solitude and raw beauty of Tibet. It highlights the resilience needed to survive in these conditions and provides Middleton with his first taste of Tibet’s untamed wilderness.

3. The Nomadic Tents and Tibetan Mastiffs

• Description: Along the journey, Middleton sees the black tents of the drokbas (Tibetan nomads), which are traditional dwellings made from yak hair. These tents are often guarded by Tibetan mastiffs, large and fierce dogs known for their loyalty and protective nature.

• Significance: The nomadic tents and mastiffs illustrate the simplicity and self-sufficient lifestyle of Tibetan nomads. The tents and animals add to the cultural texture of the journey, showing how deeply connected the people are to their environment.

4. Mountain Passes

• Description: The journey involves crossing several high-altitude mountain passes that are covered in snow and ice. These challenging passes test the skills of Tsetan, the driver, and the reliability of the vehicle as they encounter risky paths where Middleton experiences altitude sickness.

• Significance: These mountain passes serve as symbolic barriers, emphasizing the physical and mental challenges travelers must overcome in their journey toward Mount Kailash. They also underscore the isolation and inaccessibility of these sacred locations.

5. Hor

• Description: Hor is a small town situated near Lake Manasarovar. Middleton describes it as a desolate, unattractive place littered with garbage. Hor’s bleak appearance leaves a strong impression on him, contrasting sharply with his expectations of the purity of the pilgrimage route.

• Significance: Hor reveals the contrast between the spiritual idealism often associated with Tibetan places and the reality of poverty and pollution. This disappointment serves to balance the romanticism of travel with the sometimes harsh realities on the ground.

6. Lake Manasarovar

• Description: Lake Manasarovar is one of the holiest lakes in Tibet, situated near Mount Kailash. It is known for its clear blue waters and spiritual significance, drawing pilgrims from various religions. Middleton does not describe it in detail in this extract, but he acknowledges its sacred reputation.

• Significance: The lake represents spiritual purity and serves as an important location in the pilgrimage to Mount Kailash. It symbolizes the sacred geography of the Tibetan plateau, holding deep meaning for pilgrims and travelers alike.

7. Darchen

• Description: Darchen is a town located near Mount Kailash and serves as the primary starting point for the kora, the ritual circumambulation of the mountain. Here, Middleton finds basic amenities, but he also suffers from altitude sickness, which leads him to seek local Tibetan medicine.

• Significance: Darchen represents both a gateway to the sacred and a place of physical trial. It is a convergence point for pilgrims and travelers, setting the stage for Middleton’s exploration of the spiritual journey alongside Norbu, another traveler he meets there.

8. Mount Kailash

• Description: Although Middleton does not yet reach Mount Kailash in this extract, it is the ultimate destination of his journey. The mountain is a sacred site for Hindus, Buddhists, Jains, and Bon practitioners. It is revered as a holy place, and completing a kora around it is considered a significant spiritual act.

• Significance: Mount Kailash represents the central spiritual focus of the journey. It symbolizes the convergence of natural majesty and religious reverence, serving as both a literal and metaphorical peak of the travel experience.

Each place in Middleton’s journey carries its unique characteristics, contributing to the physical and spiritual dimensions of his pilgrimage. The journey is filled with both beautiful and challenging moments, giving readers a profound insight into Tibet’s landscape, culture, and spirituality.

Chapter Highlights:

1. Farewell Gift from Lhamo: 

   Explore the cultural exchange as Lhamo, a local resident, presents the narrator with a thoughtful farewell gift, a long-sleeved sheepskin coat, adding warmth to the journey towards Mount Kailash.

2. Tsetan's Shortcut and Challenges: 

   Delve into the adventure as Tsetan, the guide, takes an unconventional shortcut, offering a unique perspective of the Changtang region. Discover the challenges faced, including encounters with wild ass herds and the need to navigate snowy mountain passes.

3. Nomadic Life and Tibetan Mastiffs: 

   Witness the nomadic lifestyle with descriptions of isolated tents guarded by fearless Tibetan mastiffs. Uncover the historical significance of these majestic dogs, once tributes along the Silk Road and hunting companions in imperial courts.

4. High Altitude Perils: 

   Experience the thrill and risks of high-altitude travel as the journey reaches heights exceeding 5,000 meters. Encounter snow blockages, navigate treacherous roads, and witness the resilience of the human spirit against the backdrop of snow-capped mountains.

5. Cultural Traditions at Mountain Pass: 

   Explore the spiritual aspect of the journey as the narrator and companions reach a mountain pass marked by a cairn adorned with silk scarves and prayer flags. Delve into the cultural significance of clockwise circumambulation and the beauty of ancient traditions.

6. Darchen's Contrasts: 

   Contrast the author's expectations with the reality of Hor and Darchen, experiencing the stark beauty of Lake Manasarovar against the backdrop of a grim town. Witness the changing perceptions as the narrative unfolds.

7. Meeting Norbu: 

   Encounter Norbu, a Tibetan academic, adding a new dimension to the journey. Witness the fusion of academic curiosity and spiritual pilgrimage as the characters consider collaborating on the sacred kora around Mount Kailash.

8. Health Challenges and Tibetan Medicine: 

   Navigate the narrator's health challenges in Darchen, including the effects of altitude and a cold. Follow the journey to a Tibetan medical college, where traditional medicine and cultural practices converge to address health concerns.

9. Culmination in Darchen: 

   Reflect on the culmination of the chapter in Darchen, a town with both challenges and charm. Witness the anticipation of the upcoming pilgrimage season and the convergence of diverse characters in this Himalayan enclave.

Conclusion: "Silk Road Journey" offers a rich tapestry of experiences, blending cultural exploration, natural wonders, and personal challenges into a vivid narrative. This chapter serves as a gateway to the mystical landscapes of the Himalayas, inviting readers to join the adventure and explore the profound connections between history, spirituality, and the timeless allure of the Silk Road.

Understanding the text

Give reasons for the following statements.

1. The article has been titled 'Silk Road.'

2. Tibetan mastiffs were popular In China's Imperial courts.

3. The author's experience at Hor was in stark contrast to earlier accounts of the place.

4. The author was disappointed With Darchen.

5. The author thought that his positive thinking worked well after all.

……………………………………………

Answers:

1. Title: 'Silk Road'

   • The travelogue is titled 'Silk Road,' indicating a journey along the historic trade route that connected East and West, known for its cultural and economic significance.

2. Tibetan Mastiffs in China's Imperial Courts:

   • Tibetan mastiffs were highly esteemed in China's Imperial courts, possibly as hunting dogs.

   • Indicates a historical connection between Tibet and China through the Silk Road, showcasing the exchange of goods and cultures.

3. Contrast at Hor:

   • The author's experience at Hor is described as a stark contrast to earlier accounts of the place.

   • Implies a shift in perception or conditions, highlighting changes in the town over time or variations in personal experiences.

4. Disappointment with Darchen:

   • The text mentions that the author was disappointed with Darchen initially, describing it as grim and miserable.

   • Later, the author's perspective changes, possibly influenced by a good night's sleep and a clearer outlook.

5. Positive Thinking:

   • Suggests that the author initially struggled with a positive-thinking strategy but eventually felt that it worked well.

   • Indicates a shift in the author's mindset, possibly influenced by encounters, experiences, or the overall journey.

These statements provide insights into the author's evolving perspectives and experiences during the travelogue, showcasing the dynamic nature of the journey along the Silk Road.

II. Briefly comment on

1.     The purpose of the author's journey to Mount Kailash.

2.     The author's physical condition in Darchen.

3.     The author's meeting with Norbu.

4.     Tsetan's support to the author during the journey.

5.     "As a Buddhist, he told me, he knew that it didn't really matter if I passed away, but he thought it would be bad for business."

………………………………………………………………………………

Answers:

1. Purpose of the Journey to Mount Kailash:

   • The author's journey to Mount Kailash appears to be driven by a spiritual or personal quest, as indicated by the desire to complete the kora. The kora is a circumambulation or pilgrimage around Mount Kailash, a sacred site in Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism, Jainism, and Bon. The author's intent seems rooted in seeking a meaningful and transformative experience tied to the cultural and religious significance of the destination.

2. Author's Physical Condition in Darchen:

   • In Darchen, the author's physical condition is initially described as challenging due to a cold and difficulties sleeping at high altitudes. However, after seeking medical attention and receiving Tibetan medicine, the author experiences improvement, allowing for a better night's sleep. The transformation in physical well-being contributes to a more positive outlook on the town.

3. Author's Meeting with Norbu:

   • The author's meeting with Norbu is significant as it introduces a potential companion for the kora. Norbu, a Tibetan academic with knowledge about the significance of the kora, brings enthusiasm and a shared interest in escaping academic life for a spiritual journey. This encounter alters the author's prospects for the pilgrimage, creating the possibility of a collaborative and meaningful trek.

4. Tsetan's Support During the Journey:

   • Tsetan plays a crucial role as the author's guide and driver during the journey. His knowledge of the terrain, familiarity with the route, and ability to navigate challenges like snowy patches contribute to the author's progress. Tsetan's support is evident in the successful traversal of difficult terrain and handling of unexpected obstacles, showcasing the importance of a reliable guide in such expeditions.

5. Tsetan's Buddhist Perspective on the Author's Well-being:

   • Tsetan's statement reflects a Buddhist perspective on life and death. While acknowledging the impermanence of life, Tsetan humorously remarks that as a Buddhist, it doesn't matter to him if the author passes away. However, he adds a practical touch, stating that it would be bad for business. This statement blends spirituality with a pragmatic awareness of the journey's risks, providing insight into Tsetan's worldview and the context of their relationship.

Talking about the text

 Discuss in groups of four

1.     The sensitive behaviour of hill-folk.

2.     The reasons why people willingly undergo the travails of difficult journeys.

3.     The accounts of exotic places in legends and the reality.

………………………………………………………………………………….

1. The Sensitive Behaviour of Hill-Folk:

• The text suggests that the hill-folk, particularly Lhamo, exhibit sensitive behaviour by presenting the narrator with a farewell gift - a long-sleeved sheepskin coat. This act reflects a deep understanding of the narrator's journey and a desire to ensure their comfort and well-being in the challenging conditions ahead. The sensitivity portrayed by the hill-folk in this instance demonstrates a connection to their environment and a keen awareness of the needs of others, emphasizing the communal and supportive nature often found in close-knit communities residing in remote areas.

2. Reasons for Enduring Difficult Journeys:

• The text alludes to the idea that people willingly undergo the travails of challenging journeys for various reasons, especially when it comes to undertaking a pilgrimage like the kora around Mount Kailash. The motivation appears rooted in spiritual or personal growth, seeking transformative experiences, and connecting with cultural or religious significance. The journey becomes a means of self-discovery, a test of endurance, and an opportunity for reflection. Additionally, historical and trade routes like the Silk Road might have seen travelers enduring hardships for economic, cultural, or exploratory purposes.

3. Accounts of Exotic Places in Legends and Reality:

• The passage touches on the theme of legends and the reality of exotic places, particularly when describing the author's experience at Hor. The contrast between the author's perception and the earlier accounts of Hor in legends or historical narratives emphasizes the subjective nature of storytelling. It underscores how personal experiences and cultural contexts shape the interpretation of a place. The gap between expectation and reality highlights the complexity of representing exotic locales, demonstrating that the allure of a legendary place may not always align with the lived experience of a traveller. This duality adds depth to the narrative and prompts reflection on the intersection of myth and reality in travel writing.

Thinking about language

 Notice the kind of English Tsetan uses while talking to the author. How do you think he picked it up?

 What do the following utterances indicate?

            (i) "I told her, through Daniel .

 (ii) "It's a cold," he said finally through Tsetan.

…………………………………………………………………….

Tsetan's Use of English: Tsetan's use of English seems to be limited, and he may not be fully fluent in the language. The communication may be basic, relying on a set of phrases and expressions necessary for guiding tourists or engaging in essential conversations. The text doesn't explicitly indicate how Tsetan picked up English, but it's possible he learned it through interactions with tourists, especially considering his role as a guide. Exposure to travelers and the necessity of communicating with them might have contributed to his language skills.

Utterances:

1. "I told her, through Daniel":

   • This utterance suggests that the narrator communicated with Lhamo through Daniel. Tsetan likely played the role of an interpreter or intermediary between the narrator and Lhamo. It implies that Tsetan has some proficiency in translation or facilitating communication between individuals who speak different languages.

2. "It's a cold," he said finally through Tsetan:

   • In this statement, Tsetan is serving as a translator for the Tibetan doctor. The phrase "through Tsetan" indicates that Tsetan is relaying the doctor's words to the author. This reinforces Tsetan's role as a linguistic bridge, facilitating communication between the author and individuals who may not speak English fluently. It also emphasizes the importance of Tsetan as a guide who can assist in overcoming language barriers during the journey.

   
   

3. Guess the meaning of the following words.

 kora

 drokba

 kyang

 In which language are these words found?

………………………………………………………………………………………………….

1. Kora:

   • "Kora" is a term used in Tibetan Buddhism to refer to a circumambulation or pilgrimage around a sacred site. In this context, the author mentions heading towards Mount Kailash to complete the kora, indicating a spiritual journey around this revered mountain.

2. Drokba:

   • "Drokba" is likely a term in Tibetan, and from the context, it appears to refer to the local people or nomads. In the passage, Tsetan uses the term when addressing the author, suggesting that it might be a designation for the inhabitants of the region.

3. Kyang:

   • "Kyang" is another term that seems to be in Tibetan. In the passage, Tsetan uses it to point out a far-off pall of dust, indicating the presence of a herd of wild ass. It likely refers to the wild ass mentioned in the text.

These words are found in Tibetan, reflecting the cultural and geographical context of the journey described in the travelogue. They are indicative of the region's unique language and traditions.